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1. White Grubs cause lawn areas to brown and die. On inspection, the sod can be rolled back fairly easily since grubs have eaten the roots and c-shaped, cream colored, brown or red headed beetle larvae will be found. If eight white grubs are found per square foot, an insecticide application may be justified. At this time of year, Dylox is the insecticide of choice. However, white grubs are more difficult to kill as they grow larger. They will soon stop feeding and move deeper into the soil to overwinter. An application of imidacloprid (Merit) in June or July of next year can be used to reduce damage next season.
White Grubs In Turf, http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g1619.pdf
Grub Diagnosis Note: Be aware the disease summer patch is a root disease. Turgrass infected with summer patch can easily be pulled up due to weakened/rotted roots. Homeowners may confuse this symptom for white grub damage. Encourage homeowners to look for the white grubs to confirm the presence of white grubs before treating.
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2. Overseeding and Cultivars- Overseeding to increase lawn density, fill in bare areas, or introduce improved cultivars is best done by September 20. When overseeding, use improved cultivars and those considered to have disease resistance. A list of turfgrass cultivars recommended for Nebraska can be found on the UNL Extension Horticulture website at http://extensionhorticulture.unl.edu/ToDo/ToDo.shtml. Click on "Recommended Turfgrass Cultivars."
When overseeding, it’s critical to achieve good seed to soil contact. Methods to use include a slit seeder that plants seed through existing grass into the soil; power raking and removing all dead grass and debris before overseeding; and/or, core aerating (plugging) the lawn to relieve soil compaction and provide openings for seed to soil contact. Core aerate the lawn twice, running the machine at a 90 degree angle to the first aeration. Leave the plugs on the lawn to decompose.
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3. Fall Weed Control- Mid September to early October is the best time to control perennial, broadleaf weeds (dandelions, bindweed, white clover, ground ivy) in lawns. Plants are moving photosynthetic products into the roots for winter storage and more herbicide is moved into roots, increasing root kill. Herbicides labeled for lawns and broadleaf weed control such as 2,4-D and combination herbicides such as Trimec are recommended. Winter annuals (Henbit, Speedwell, Shepardspurse) germinate in the fall then grow, flower and produce seed the following spring and summer. For their control, apply preemergent herbicides (Dimension, Barricade or pendimethalin based products for lawns and Preen for ornamental beds) in early September or post emergent herbicides such as 2,4-D in late October.
Landscape Weed Management, http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/ec1256.pdf
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4. Sandbur control on sandy beaches poses an issue due to herbicide use near water. Sandbur is an annual, grassy weed. Repeated tillage using a garden tiller or a tiller behind a lawn and garden tractor will kill existing plants. For post emergent control, use an aquatic glyphosate product, such as Rodeo, on small plants as needed. Read and follow all label directions. Repeated applications through the growing season will likely be needed to control sandbur.
Post-emergence applications of an aquatic glyphosate may be the most economical control.
The pre-emergence herbicide Habitat (active ingredient = imazapyr) from BASF is an option to use near/in aquatic environments. It will control sandbur and most other vegetation for an extended period of time. It is very expensive, difficult to obtain, and needs to be applied by a licensed pesticide applicator.
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5. Weedy vines, like burcucumber and honeyvine milkweed, are more prevalent in wet years. Burcumber is an annual vine with 5-lobed leaves, whitish flowers, and small prickly seed pods that grow in clusters. It is common in shelterbelts. In trees, control with hoeing or the pre-emergence herbicide Princep (active ingredient = simazine) applied in May.
Honeyvine milkweed is a perennial broadleaf vine with heart-shaped leaves and no milky sap. Fruit pods resemble common milkweed, but are light green, shiny, and smooth on the outside. Control with post-emergence applications of glyphosate or 2,4-D applied before the vines begin to climb.
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6. Early leaf drop can be due to a number of factors ranging from leaf diseases, and insect or mite pests, to extremes in growing conditions. Lindens and hackberries are two trees exhibiting early leaf drop for which there does not appear to be a pest involved. Early leaf drop may still be a response to our early April freeze; or a response to our heavy rains and wind storms. If leaf drop is due to a pest, such as apple scab on crabapples or maple bladder gall on maples, it is too late to apply pesticides for control. In most cases, these pests do not cause long term harm to these trees. From past experience with early leaf drop in Lindens and hackberries, most trees show no negative effects the following season.
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7. Wind damage care/hazard tree identification- Wind damage to trees can lead to hazardous conditions or future problems for a tree if corrective pruning is not done. Some key points when wind damage occurs include the following.
- Safety first. Assess the situation and hire an Arborist to prune/remove damaged branches that are clear hazards using correct pruning practices.
- If time only allows for broken branches to be removed quickly for safety purposes, be sure to have an arborist return to make a correct pruning cut so that stubs and/or broken branches are not left in the tree.
- Do not treat the wind damage or wounds with a pruning paint or dressing of any kind.
Hiring An Arborist, http://www.nfs.unl.edu/treecare/hiringanarborist.asp
How To Recognize Hazardous Defects In Trees, http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_haz/ht_haz.htm
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8. Whiteflies are found on the undersides of leaves and are active during the day. When an infested plant is disturbed, the white-winged adults often fly into the air. Whiteflies damage plants by sucking out plant juices. Heavily infested plants can be seriously weakened and grow poorly. Leaves often turn yellow, appear dry and drop prematurely. Some whiteflies can become a serious pest of certain vegetable crops (i.e. peppers), greenhouse plants (i.e. hibiscus) or ornamental plants.
In colder climates, whiteflies do not survive outside during winter. In warmer climates and indoors, they can reproduce throughout the year with several overlapping generations. Sanitation and natural predators are helpful controls outdoors. Indoors, yellow sticky traps can be effective. Whiteflies have developed a resistance to many insecticides. For a list of alternative insecticides to use, refer to the following publication.
Managing WhiteFlies On Indoor And OutDoor Plants, http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/pests/g07275.htm
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9.
Winged and swarming ants- Ants will develop wings and “swarm” to establish new colonies. While this commonly occurs in spring; some swarming may be seen during late summer. Termites also develop wings and “swarm”; therefore it is important to positively identify the swarming insect.
Ant Management Resources, http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/ants.shtml
Termite Management Resources, http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/termite.shtml
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10. Pantry pests are a variety of insects including meal moths, dermestid beetles, grain and flour beetles. They’re usually associated with grain or cereal products, dried meats, hides and woolens which are their food source. If pantry pests are found, positively identify which pest it is and determine it’s food or breeding source. Remove the source through disposal, by placing in the freezer, or by storing in airtight containers. Don’t overlook sources such as pet food, bird seed, or dog, cat and gerbil food.
Managing Pantry Pests, http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/pantrypests304.shtml
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11. Fruit Flies are among the smallest flies found in homes. They’re usually light brown and may be marked with bright red eyes. Fruit flies most often are found hovering around overly ripe fruit or rotted vegetables like tomatoes, onions or potatoes. Fermenting materials, such as leftover beer or soft drinks, are also favorite food of fruit flies. Populations tend to be greatest in late summer and early fall as they infest fruits during the harvest season.
Occasionally, pomace flies, similar in appearance to fruit flies, may infest the home. The source of a pomace fly problem is often standing water like a forgotten mop pail or an open sewer drain.
Control fruit flies by discarding overly ripe fruit or placing it in the refrigerator. No insecticide is needed. If infestations are coming from soft drink or beer containers, wash bottles and cans during recycling to eliminate these breeding sites. Use a simple non-toxic trap to catch fruit flies.
Flies In The Home,
http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/Flies015.shtml
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12. Cottony aphids in the air. What appears to be “cottony fluff” floating in the air may be cottony or woolly aphids flying back to a primary host to overwinter. Aphids are sapsucking insects. They’re not considered seriously harmful to trees and are best tolerated rather than controlled. They can produce a messy honeydew that drips onto vehicles and patios. A black, sooty mold also grows on the honeydew and causes leaf discoloration.
Woolly Aphids On Trees & Shrubs, http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/e453woollyaphid.html |
