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University of Nebraska–Lincoln

UNL Extension Horticulture

Healing Landscapes, Healthy Crops, and a Safe Environment

Hort Update for the week of 9/28/06
Current Problems: Major Symptom:
Lawns
 
1. Sod webworm moths Buff colored moths flying over lawns
2. Stem rust Orangish-yellow powder (fungal spores) on grass blades, mowers, shoes
3. Henbit control Lavender flowered weed that blooms in early spring
4. Broadleaf weed control Dandelions, white clover, dock, ground ivy, etc.
5. Sedgehammer note Name spelled incorrectly
6. Fall fertilization Important for cool season turfgrasses
7. Moles Conical shaped soil mounds and raised feeding tunnels
   
Trees & Shrubs  
8. Bacterial scorch on oak Browning of leaf edges and tissues between leaf veins
9. Twig girdlers Twigs cut and littering the ground beneath trees
10. Fungal leaf spots Spotting of leaves, followed by yellowing and browning
   
Vegetables/Fruits/Ornamentals
11. Water core in apples Water soaked, translucent appearance inside apple fruit
12. Transplanting What to transplant and when?
13. Cutting back & sanitation What plants should be cut back for winter and when?
14. Winter mulch Wait to apply winter mulch
   
Fall Insects
15. Wood roaches One inch long cockroaches attracted to lights.
16. Swarming ants Large, yellowish, winged ants seen in swarms.
   
Potential Problem To Watch For
17. Vole damage prevention Small, mouse-like rodents that gnaw on trees during winter
18. Sunscald prevention Damage to tender barked trees during winter


1. Sod Webworm Moths are buff colored moths flying over lawns. However, there are a variety of moths out at this time of year, so positive identification is important. Sod Webworm moths are 1/2 to 3/4 inches long with a snout-like projection. At rest, they fold their wings around their body, giving them a cylindrical shape.

Larvae hatching from eggs laid now will overwinter as partially grown larvae. Many will fail to survive the winter so large numbers of moths present now does not always translate to large numbers of larvae causing damage next spring. This third generation is not a concern during fall and insecticide applications to lawns are not needed at this time. Moths do not damage lawns. The larvae cause damage, typically in mid-summer.

Be aware of, but ignore buff-colored moths in lawns for now. Next April and May, be alert for signs of lawn damage in case of good winter survival. Monitor lawns for sod webworms in June & July.

Internet Resources: http://entomology.unl.edu/turfent/documnts/swebwrms.htm

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2. Stem Rust appears as an orangish-yellow powder (spores) on grass blades in late summer. The turf may develop a yellow or brown appearance. Rust typically develops on lawns and other turf areas with very slow growth.

Fall lawn care, including fertilization and correct irrigation, along with cooler fall weather promotes turfgrass growth and rust usually disappears. Fungicide controls are rarely suggested on home lawns.

Note for Sports Turf
: If stem rust occurs on sports fields, the fungal spores can present problems for allergy/asthma sufferers. Control of stem rust is recommended on sports turfs using a combination of turf management and timely fungicide applications.

Internet Resource: http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/turf/rustlawn.html

Sports Turf Internet Resource: http://hcs.osu.edu/sportsturf/notes/detail.lasso?id=1094

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3. Henbit is a winter annual that has become a more common weed in lawns. It is a lavender-blooming plant with square stems and opposite leaves that blooms in early spring. Henbit germinates and begins growth in fall; then blooms and goes to seed the following spring or early summer.

When winter annuals become a problem in lawns, it is usually due to turfgrass not competing with weeds. Cultural care practices need to be implemented to increase turf density and improve its competitiveness with weeds.

If it is determined herbicide applications are warranted, henbit can be controlled with the same preemergent herbicides used to control crabgrass; however, these products must be applied in fall prior to seed germination. The first application should have been made in early September. A second application in early October will still reduce henbit next spring. Young plants could also be treated later this fall with post-emergent herbicides.

Internet Resource: http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/Weed/henbit.htm

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4. Broadleaf Weed Control- Herbicides applied in late summer and early fall are most effective in controlling broadleaf perennial weeds such as dandelions, clover, ground ivy, and dock. Herbicides can be applied up until the first hard freeze.

Coming Soon:
A new publication, Landscape Weed Management Extension Circular, will soon be available from the University of Nebraska Lincoln Extension. It will provide weed identification (with colored photos) and weed management information.

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5. Sedgehammer, not Sledgehammer for Yellow Nutsedge- In a previous newsletter, it was reported the herbicide halosulfuron, sold as Manage, will now be sold as Sledgehammer. This is incorrect. It will be sold as Sedgehammer.

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6. Fall Fertilization is important for cool season turfgrass like Kentucky Bluegrass and Tall Fescue. The final fertilization of the season, and one of the most important, should be timed with the last mowing in late October or early November.

Internet Resource: http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g517.pdf

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7. Moles form conical shaped mounds of soil less than one foot wide and cause raised tunnels across the lawn. They feed while burrowing just below the soil surface where their preferred food (grubs, beetles, and earthworms) are found. Moles live alone, but burrow systems of several moles may connect. Burrowing occurs year-round, peaking during warm wet months. Moles are often more of a nuisance than an economic pest. Mounds and surface burrows interfere with mowing and mole activities may disturb root systems and kill grass.

Trapping is the most effective and practical means for controlling problem moles. Success is highest in spring and fall, especially after rains. See the internet resource below for information on trapping moles: http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g1538.pdf

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8. Bacterial Scorch on Pin Oak was recently found on a pin oak in Douglas County. This disease appears similar to environmental leaf scorch. Leaves of diseased trees show leaf scorch, where the leaf tissue between veins and at leaf edges turns brown while the tissue nearest the veins remains green. Premature browning occurs each year and after several years twigs and branches begin to dieback.

The pathogen, Xylella fastidiosa, is a xylem inhabiting bacterium thought to be transmitted by leafhopper insects. The disease seems to spread slowly from one tree to another, so the insects may not be very efficient carriers. However, once inside the tree the bacteria are difficult to control. After many years, affected trees decline and die. Bacterial leaf scorch appears to affect mainly older trees, but young trees can also die from this disease.

If a tree is showing bacterial leaf scorch symptoms, be prepared to lose it in a few years.

Internet Resource: http://soilplantlab.missouri.edu/plant/diseases/scorch.htm or
http://www.nj.gov/dep/parksandforests/forest/community/bls.html

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9. Twig Girdlers ( Oncideres cingulata) cut off twigs which drop and litter the ground beneath trees. They attack a variety of shade, nut, and fruit trees. Twig girdlers mainly affect the aesthetic quality of shade trees, but may create concerns for nut and fruit tree growers or timber plantations.

Adults are typically long-horned, grayish brown beetles, ½” to 5/8” long. They feed on tender bark near branch ends, where they insert eggs beneath the bark during the cutting process. Twigs from 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter are most commonly girdled. Twig girdling extends through the bark and well into the wood in a complete circle around the stem and leaves only a thin column of center wood, which breaks easily. The small larvae overwinter in dead twigs in the tree or on the ground. Remove and destroy fallen twigs to reduce overwintering larvae.

Twig girdlers are distinguished from squirrel feeding by the very neat cut. Squirrel cuts are ragged.

Internet Resource: http://gage.unl.edu/Pests%20&%20Problems/Twig%20Girdler.htm or
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/pests/g07276.htm

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10. Fungal Leaf Spots are fairly common on shade tree and shrub leaves at this time of year, especially with our frequent rainfall. Most are inconsequential. While they lead to leaf yellowing and drop, most leaves of trees and shrubs will drop soon anyway. Fungicide controls are not recommended for fungal leaf spots this late in the season.

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11. Water Core in Apples is not caused by a disease or insect. It occurs before harvest, and appears as translucent, water-soaked areas in the flesh.These water-soaked areas commonly develop near the core, but in severe cases, can radiate outward. Fruits with water core are edible, but their storage life is reduced. A lack of calcium in the fruit due to growing conditions is the most common cause.

Internet Resource: http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1997/4-11-1997/applephys.html

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12. Transplanting- Spring and summer blooming perennials, asparagus and rhubarb are commonly transplanted in the fall. After fall transplanting, keep the soil moist up until the soil freezes to encourage root growth.

After the soil freezes, place a 6 to 8 inch layer of mulch over the plants to prevent freezing and thawing of the soil leading to soil heave which can uproot unestablished plants.

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13. Cutting Back/Sanitation- "What should be cut back and when?" is a common question asked about perennial herbaceous flowers, vegetables, and ornamental grasses at this time of year.

In most cases, wait until the foliage dies naturally or until after the first hard freeze to remove the tops of these plants. Any plant that had a disease or insect problem is best cut back in the fall and the plant debris removed and destroyed to reduce overwintering pests.

The tops of ornamental grasses should be left over winter for landscape interest, but plan to cut them back in March. Herbaceous perennials with winter interest, i.e. rose hips, sedum, coneflowers can be left and cut down early next spring. Asparagus can be cut back in the fall or next spring. If left over winter, it will catch snow for added moisture that can improve next springs harvest.

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14. Winter Mulch is placed over semi-tender plants such as hybrid tea roses, chrysanthemums and strawberries to protect plants against wide soil temperature fluctuations and from extreme cold temperatures.

It is too early to apply winter mulch. A plant's natural dormancy can be delayed by applying winter mulch too early and dormancy is the best winter protection. Wait to apply winter mulch until the plant is dormant which usually occurs after night time temperatures are consistently dropping into the 20 degrees Fahrenheit range.

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15. Wood Roaches live in rotted logs, tree stumps, hollow trees, stopped-up rain gutters, and in piles of firewood. Males take flight during late spring in search of females. Males are attracted to light and sometimes accidentally invade homes, where they soon die. The best control method is exclusion, by tightening around screens, doors and windows. No chemical control is necessary.

Internet Image Resource: http://entomology.unl.edu/images/cockroaches/cockroaches.htm

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16. Swarming Citronella Ants are the fairly large, yellowish, winged ants emerging from the ground or flying in swarms around homes. They get their name from a citrus-like odor when crushed. These ants are considered only a nuisance pest. They live in soil and may be found in lawns, gardens, pastures, wooded areas and next to house foundations. Some colonies are located beneath concrete slabs, rocks, and rotting logs. Normally, they go unnoticed unless swarmers accidentally enter homes through cracks or other openings.

Once in the home, citronella ants will not reproduce or attack stored goods or structures. Swatting, vacuuming and preventing their entry are the best control methods. Outdoors, they feed mainly on aphid honeydew and root mealybugs. Swarms of citronella ants can occur at any time of the year, but are most common from mid to late summer.

Internet Resource: http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/ants/LargeYellowAnt.shtml

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17. Voles are small, mouse-like rodents that exist throughout Nebraska. Their short tails (about 1 inch long), stocky build and small eyes distinguish them from true mice. Voles can cause problems by damaging lawns, gardens, tree plantings and other plants.

Vole damage is most common during winter when a shortage of food forces them to eat the inner green bark layer of trees and shrubs. This gnawing can severely damage or kill young trees and shrubs.

Now is the time to prepare protection for valuable trees and shrubs. Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth or plastic cylinders to protect individual trees and shrubs.

Internet Resource: http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g887.pdf

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18. Sunscald Protection for Trees. During the daytime in winter, the bark on the south or southwest side of a tree can be warmed to above freezing, even though air temperature may be below freezing. When the sun sets, the bark temperature drops below freezing and the area of warmed tissue is frozen and often killed. When this occurs, a long, vertical, dead area forms.

Maple, honeylocust, linden, Bradford pear, eastern white pine, all fruit trees, and other trees with thin, smooth bark are susceptible. Trees are more susceptible if their roots have recently been severely injured, such as during transplanting. Care should be taken to minimize root injury during transplanting.

The trunks of recently transplanted trees susceptible to sunscald can be wrapped with a commercial tree wrap during the first winter to reduce the chance of sunscald. The tree wrap must be removed at the beginning of the following spring to avoid damaging the tree during the growing season.

Internet Resource:http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/sendIt/g1433.pdf